Puppy Going Home Letter - 2001
Hi to all of this puppy's new family.
You have chosen and been chosen to provide a home for this gorgeous puppy. During the first eight to ten weeks of your puppy's life, it has spent most of its time first with mother Vision, grandmother "Bri", Aunts Sparkle and Pink, as well as his own littermate brothers and sisters. This pup has received lots of love and attention from his human contacts and has never known harsh treatment or loneliness. This pup was nursed by his Mother until she started to wean him at seven to eight weeks of age. The diet introduced was Eukanuba Puppy-large breed kibble which the pup is now eating in the free feeding method. As a general rule, food and water were always available to this pup, except at night.
When you arrive to pick up your puppy, she will have been freshly bathed and clipped.
She will have had her tattoo identification done. This litter is identified with my tattoo combination which is registered with the CKC as AWT. There were five puppies in this litter so the next number is from one to five representing the number of pups born to this kennel this year. The letter following the number is an "N" which is the assigned letter for all puppies born in 2003 and registered with the CKC.
She has received his three sets of inoculations and you will receive a health card signed by the attending vet. She will need a rabies shot in approximately three weeks or earlier if you want to take your pup across the border.
You will be required to pay for this pup prior to taking her home. We will both sign a purchase agreement which you have previously read and agreed upon, as well as the CKC non-breeding agreement. You will receive copies of all this documentation.
I will provide you with a puppy introduction package. In the package you will find:
- a breed guide
- his pedigree
- his medical card
- sample of his food
- a favorite toy
- a familiar blanket or cloth from his bedding.
Then you are ready to take home your new baby and introduce him to his new home.
FIRST DAY
If you take this pup before 16 weeks, he will not have had all her necessary inoculations. DO NOT expose him to anything other than your home and yard until all of his shots have been completed. I realize that you will want to show your pup to others, but it is better to have friends come to see you, than to take your new pup all over town. Your pup will find enough interesting things to do while getting accustomed to your home and yard.
FIRST NIGHT
This pup is used to sleeping alone in a crate. You should introduce her to her new crate and if possible, leave the crate close to your bed. This will enable you to comfort the pup with your voice and put your hand down near the pup, your fingers through the grate if necessary. This helps to ensure that everyone will get their required sleep. The crate can be moved farther from the bed each night until it is where you want it and where the pup will eventually sleep. This shouldn't take longer than one week.
TRAINING AND HOUSE-BREAKING
This pup has been encouraged to relieve herself outside as much as possible. She has also been paper trained, but I don't suggest that your encourage that too much longer. It is up to you to put the pup out when necessary. This is like training a child and you should be able to anticipate when he will need to go out.
- Use the crate--do not give the pup the run of the house. It will prolong her housebreaking period and cause no end of grief for all concerned.
- Outside first thing in the morning--(this means as soon as your feet hit the floor.)
- After each meal--sometimes in the middle so perhaps before and after
- When she wakes from his nap.
- After play
- Last thing at night.
Puppies do not have bladder control until AT LEAST four months, so when they decide to go-- now is not two minutes from now.
Your puppy will not want to soil her crate so be sure not to abuse this dislike of messing in the crate by leaving her for long periods. Signs to watch for are:
- Sniffing the floor
- Pacing and circling
- Whimpering in the crate
Please use lots of praise, immediately as the pup is relieving herself, so he knows what you want. Take your pup to the same part of the yard each time, because the previous smell will encourage her to go.
###############NEVER RUB HIS NOSE IN IT###################
A firm "NO " and then pick her up and put her where your want her to go.
TEETHING (Between four and six months--lasting six weeks)
This is a stressful time for a puppy. Try not to add stress (no formal training, no long trips, unnecessary vet visits, etc.) Please keep and eye on the teeth to see that they are developing properly. Remember, that now is the time when your puppy will chew everything in sight. BE NEAT--pick up shoes, clothes, purses, and values belongings. You can't move walls but this is fair game so be warned. You will really find the value of a well crate-trained puppy during this time KEEP HER OFF THE FURNITURE, at least during this teething time. It is amazing how quickly a pup can destroy a cushion, or even the wood in the arm of a couch. Watch her at all times in a car during this period if you do not want to be re-upholstering your vehicle.
TEETHING SOLUTIONS Yes, there are ways to prevent the aforementioned damage. When you are not with your pup, (or watching her because she's fast) provide her with socks-washed and knotted which have been soaked and frozen; solid rubber toys, good hard dog biscuits and bones (not rawhide) and no pigs bones-they are soft and shatter.
CLIPPING AND GROOMING
Poodles are very proud and do not like to be dirty and unkempt. You may think that she is happy to look seedy, but the hair continues to grow like yours will and will eventually matte and become very painful especially between the toes. It can cause problems when it hangs in her eyes. I hope you are as fussy as I am and will not allow your pup to look unkempt.
If you do not want to handle the grooming yourself, find a groomer and take her regularly. A good groomer will probably give you the first cut free or be very reasonable. Let a professional work with her a few times so that she learns to be still while getting used to clipping by someone who will not frighten her, and will insist on proper behavior. If you want to learn, get her used to your clippers, by just starting them up near her and running it over her gently, without insisting on a full finished job. Just a foot or face at one time, accompanied by lots and lots of praise and followed by her favorite treat will make her much easier to handle each successive time. Two months between full grooming is just about right is you brush her in between. Feel your pup when you are petting or brushing. If you notice a mat, brush it out right away! The pup will not matte badly until around eight or nine months of age when a coat change will take place. Remember if your dog is matted when you take her to a groomer:
- They will cut the dog right down and she will look dreadful.
- She will be put through a very painful process to de-matte.(pulling, tugging, and destroying a lot of coat.
- She will be tranquilized.
- They will charge you double or more.
- You will be asked to find another groomer.
The more a dog is put on a table to be groomed, brushed and attended to--the better behaved she will be. The grooming table should never be a place for playing! Make sure she knows that the table is for business--make her behave. Start by brushing a few minutes each day, then praise her and take her off the table. These grooming periods can gradually become longer until she will lay quietly on the table for long periods of time. This talent in valuable in many situations so encourage it. Your vet, for one, will love your dog.
EARS regular tweezing of excess hair will keep the ears clear of wax build up and infections. I recommend a using an ear powder (very little amount) for use with the tweezers. Don't overdo the tweezing or you can irritate the ear. If the ears do get a build up, talk to your vet about a good cleaning solution you can use at home. I use a solution of cider vinegar/rubbing alcohol in a 50/50 mix--soak a cotton, drain into ear canal and clean with fresh cotton. If this is done every couple of weeks you probably will not have ear problems in this pup. There are good commercial products called ear wash and ear dry which are useful after the pup has been swimming.
NAILS A short clip once a week will ensure that your pup gets used to this care and the quick stays back properly so she will not have trouble walking. Either clipping or grinding is suitable, as long as you make sure that the nails never get too long--(you should not hear them clipping when the pup walks).
FEEDING
Your pup has had the best food available while I had him. Please do not ever buy cheap grocery store dog food. It is not worth the health risk. She should now have:
Eukanuba for puppy-large breed or slowly introduce another quality food by mixing it with this one and gradually adding more to the mix.
WATER -available at all times (except in crate at night)
Iams biscuits
(Please keep her away from cat food which is not good for her)
If for any reason you do change the food, do it gradually, and buy a good one recommended by your vet.
Feed her in a regular spot. She will learn to look there for her food.
Feed her before you eat! She won't be inclined to beg. Feed her regularly--the free feeding method is best, but if cats or other household pets are going to get his food, then feed her three times a day with water in between, and then twice a day -NEVER LESS OFTEN.
If you feel you can't resist giving him some additional specialties from your fridge, you can add hard cheese, rice, most meats and vegetables-( No onion, no chocolate, no grapes and no raisins ) but they like whole carrots to chew on , and an egg occasionally. Be vary cautious of turkey, chicken and organ meats--they can cause loose stools. She loves to chew and play with ice cubes.
I do find, though, that small pieces of cooked liver, and bits of hot dogs make training time a lot of fun for the dog. DO NOT FEED BONES THAT CAN SPLINTER. Even the pre-packaged bones can chip or splinter and more than one puppy has had to be placed under anesthetic to remove a bone that got stuck when the milk tooth got jammed into the whole of the bone--keep an eye on him when he has a bone.
ALWAYS MAKE HIM REST A MINIMUM OF ONE HOUR AFTER A BIG MEAL.
TRAINING
She has been conditioned to come to a rapid hand clapping and the call of Puppy! Come! Puppy! Use this to start and gradually insert your pup's name.
Then use her name and the word "Come" Soon you will be able to dispense with the hand clapping and the Puppy call and yet you will have a pup who will react immediately and race to you as soon as she is called.
DO NOT LOSE THIS AS IT IS HIS MOST IMPORTANT COMMAND!
This pup is a beautiful example of the wonderful breed of Standard Poodle. She is intelligent and gentle.
REMEMBER!!! TRAINING MUST BE GENTLE, CONSISTENT , FIRM
This wonderful baby will grow to be your trusted and trusting friend. She will love and protect you. She will always want to please you if you do a little bit to encourage her as a youngster. When all her shots have been completed, take her everywhere to socialize her.
Put her in the car if you are going to the store for milk. Put her on a leash if you need some fresh air and want to walk around the block. Get her used to crowds of people and let lots and lots of people pat her and touch her. She will be a sensational looking adult dog and people will stop you and beg to be allowed to touch her. Teach her, as a young pup to stand still while strangers touch her. It will not do her any harm nor will it take away from his desire to protect you and her home environment. Get her used to children, but children can move quick and startle her or hit him so always be wary and watchful until he is used to how to behave with young children. She will be big, so it is necessary for her to learn NOW that roughness will not be tolerated. Get her used to a leash and collar (only for outings) as soon as you get her home. NEVER leave a choke collar on your dog when she is not on leash. Just a casual tug on the leash with a big hug when she gets there will be all that's necessary for the first while.
Puppy socialization classes are wonderful experience for her, as long as it is with a good kind class teacher. I highly recommended basic obedience before one year of age.
CALL ME IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS. IF I'M NOT IMMEDIATELY AVAILABLE THEN TALK TO ANYONE HERE WHO ANSWERS THE PHONE-(I HAVE THEM ALL PRETTY WELL TRAINED IN DOG BEHAVIOR AND WE ALL LEARNED TO LOVE YOUR LITTLE GIRL WHILE WE HAD HER)
THE ONLY WAY A BREEDER CAN ESTABLISH A HEALTHY LINE IS BY KNOWING WHERE ALL THE PUPS ARE AND HOW THEY ARE DOING. PLEASE KEEP
IN TOUCH, WITH THE GOOD NEWS OR THE BAD NEWS. I LOVE TO RECEIVE PICTURES OF PUPPIES AND LETTERS OR CALLS ABOUT THEIR DEVELOPMENT ARE ALWAYS APPRECIATED. I'LL TRY TO KEEP YOU INFORMED ABOUT THE OTHER FAMILY MENBERS BY WAY OF A YEARLY NEWLETTER.
GOOD LUCK!
SHEILA BOOTH
STANDARD KENNEL
I would like to recommend an international poodle club by the name of Versatility in Poodles. This is a worldwide organization dedicated to the betterment of the breed. Pet owners are welcome additions to the club and you will receive a bi-monthly newsletter which is full of up-to-date health information on the poodle and the who, when, where, what and why of Poodle companionship. They have a very informative web site
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